Oh Positano, where do I begin? We approached Positano by ferry coming from Sorrento. Positano is said to be the most photographed fishing village in the world and now I can see why.
After you disembark from the ferry, there are men in little golf carts that can help you with your luggage to your hotel. The reason they have this is Positano is not flat. The stunning cliffside houses require steps. There is really only one street in Positano where you are able to drive as well so this means that you have to walk up steep inclines to get to where you are staying (unless of course you happen to be staying in the harbor or beachfront areas but there are not many options to do this).
Where to stay in Positano:
There is no way I would stay in Positano unless I could take advantage of the views. You simply must get a hotel or vacation rental with views, just trust me on this.
I did a lot of research and found Albergo California which is a lovely hotel with 15 very large rooms. We requested a terrace of course. The cost was very reasonable for Positano ~160 euro per night. It is not inexpensive to vacation on the Amalfi coast so we were very thankful to find this hotel.
Once we arrived, Maria helped check us in. We had about 1000 questions on hiking, beaches, restaurants, wine stores, etc. She was very patient and knowledgeable. I immediately felt at home there. Antonio helped us with our luggage and showed us to our room.
The hotel has a patio/cafe in the front where you can order food all day but they also offer a free breakfast there in the morning for all guests, including made to order coffees. Plus the cafe has beautiful views of Positano.
Quentin and I love to self cater on vacations and get a lot of fulfillment from shopping at the same grocery stores the locals do. We’re geeks in that way but not only do we find it enjoyable it also saves some money as well. Plus I get tired of having to go out to a restaurant every single night. It’s nice to just make yourself a light dinner. Albergo California was very accommodating and allowed us to not only use the cafe area but also supplied us with a corkscrew, plates, silverware and anything else we needed. They also allowed us to take these things up to our room so that we could eat on our terrace.
Where to eat in Positano:
Although we had a travel book I was eager for Maria’s recommendations. When we asked her first response was Chez Black which was in my book. I pried though and said “no we want to know where YOU eat” after a few minutes of questioning she eventually moved past the tourist traps of Positano.
She told us that some of the best places to eat in Positano were up at the very top villages which is where locals eat as well. This would require a lot of walking. Now I don’t mind walking but this is more of a hike which again sounds good and all but only if I am wearing hiking clothes. I really don’t care to hike in a dress. Fortunately, all of the restaurants offer pick up and drop off to your hotel. How convenient! It was great we just made a reservation with Maria and she took care of the rest. All we had to do was wait outside and a car was there right on time to pick us up and take us to dinner.
Here are the places Maria recommended all of which were fantastic:
- Il Ritrovo
- Caffe Positano – they have a guy singing American music with an Italian accent. It was when he covered “I just called to say I love you” by Stevie Wonder that I just lost it. The food is good here. I got the tuna. For added adventure ask to eat outside which is located on a corner where you will fear for your life that one of the SITA buses will hit you each time they turn that sharp corner
- Ristorante Scirocco
- Santa Croce – the fresh ravioli will make you feel as if you have never “really” eaten ravioli before. It is off the chain good.
- Da Adolfo – you arrive here by boat or you can hike down to it. They have boats that pick you up on the beach. Ask anyone and they can direct you. Try to make reservations though.
Enjoying the beach in Positano:
There are several beaches available if you want to swim and relax on a lounge chair. You simply pay a daily fee for a chair and umbrella and such. Spiaggia Grande has umbrellas and chairs for 10-15 euro pp. Another option is Fornillo Beach on the other side of Spiaggia Grande. I think Fornillo Beach is a little less crowded. We didn’t go to either one of these though as we opted to rent a boat so that we could explore and swim on our own.